I was able to speak with some experts about how Retinol, the vitamin A derivative, works on the skin.
There is a great deal of mystery and confusion surrounding retinol, despite it being one of the most buzzed about and most reviewed ingredients for skin care today amongst young adults to more mature men and women. In fact, it actually turns out that Retinol is one of the most sought-after ingredients in skin-care products, but even those who know what it is are unsure why it's so popular and whether or not it's right for them. Let’s dive into this product and see what it really is and why it’s so great for our skin.
What is Retinol used for?
In general, dermatologists and cosmetic chemists are happy to share their knowledge about retinol that we can apply to our next purchase of a serum, cream, oil, or prescription topical from the retinol family. It is used for a variety of purposes, but more than anything is known for its skin rejuvenating qualities.
So, what is Retinol?
Just like vitamin C can also be known as ascorbic acid and niacinamide, which is a form of vitamin B3, so can retinol. Retinol is actually one of the main forms of vitamin A.
It is true, however, that retinol has become a not-always accurate catchall for Vitamin A-derived ingredients. A retinoid, more correctly, is one of several types of retinol. Various derivatives of vitamin A, both natural and synthetic, are called retinoids, based on what experts say. For example, retinoids that are commonly used in skin care products are retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters, and retinaldehyde (retinal aldehyde).
What is the science behind retinoids?
A retinoid that is the most bioavailable is retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin. Retinoic acid (Tretinoin) doesn't need to be converted, so it has the benefit of being readily available and faster-acting than other retinoids, according to board certified cosmetic expert, Dr. Schwarzburg, M.D.. Consequently, Dr. S says it is commonly available only under prescription, mostly under the name Retin-A.
Dr. S says that retinol is the alcohol form of vitamin A, as well as the version most commonly found in skin care products. Retinol has been shown to improve tone and texture, as well as dyspigmentation, hyperpigmentation, photodamage, dryness, and fine lines, he says. But unfortunately there is a catch.
The good news is that retinol can benefit skin at any level, from 001 percent to the maximum recommended of 1 percent. This is great news for newcomers who may want to start at a lower level and work their way up. This also means that they are less potent than Retinol in and of itself.
Last but not least, we have retinaldehyde or retinal aldehyde. Despite being very stable, experts say it's also the least potent among the bunch.
What is Retinol capable of doing? Why use it?
Retinol benefits almost everyone, and this is not an exaggeration. Retinoids are keratolytics, i.e. they increase skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen synthesis. Experts strongly recommend it as a way to diminish common signs of aging.
Furthermore, this helps decrease the appearance of brown or red post-acne spots due to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation as well as encouraging collagen synthesis.
According to experts, prescription-strength retinoids are typically used for acne, while over-the-counter products are meant to combat age spots. A number of nonprescription retinoids have greatly improved their formulations by incorporating retinol release over time, they say.
They recommend retinol products, like Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Oil, which has a sustained-action retinol formula, and Bio Complete Serum, which is formulated to be gentle on sensitive skin or skin that is not yet used to retinoids. Resist 1% Retinol Booster also delivers its key ingredient via a slow-release system.
Dr. S suggests using a milder retinoid in a cream base for sensitive skin around the eyes. A super affordable price coupled with a gentle, slow-release formula makes The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream a winner.
Whenever possible, I like to use a serum formulation followed by moisturizer to combat potential irritation or dryness. A favorite over-the-counter serum is RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Night Serum Capsules.
Dr. S has his patients start with retinoids twice a week, increase to every night over a month, and then stop after 30 days. His recommendation is to wait about 30 minutes after washing the face so the natural facial oils have a chance to reappear. Furthermore, he mentions a technique in which you rub on the retinoid and then rinse it off. There is still benefit to your skin if you do this.
According to medical experts, retinol works the best when used sparingly. Applying more at one time to your skin won't produce better results, it will just cause more irritation.
Sandwich technique is another dermatologist-favorite application method. Firstly, moisturize the skin with a base layer before applying your retinol product, and then apply it again after.
